News


ClimbapediaHere's a heads up to anyone planning a climbing trip around the world. Lots of great info on crags, accommoadtion, travel etc. In fact our last guests used the site to find us!!
http://www.climbapedia.com/


11th July
Well it's very very hot here at the moment - high 30's!
However what better way to pass the afternoon than bagging a few shady routes on the north face at St. Leger then picknicking with the family and swimming in the river by the car-park bridge.
Other shady crags include:
The north face of The Chaine de Gigondas in The Dentelles.
Ubrieux before midday.
Malaucene - Upper tier before about 1pm and the lower tier before 2pm.
The west face of the cirque at Baume Rousse goes in the shade after lunch.
Don't forget the hard man's sector in the cave at La Baleine which is so steep it's shady and cool all afternoon.
So there's still lots to do even during a hetwave like this.

1st June
So we just had a mini heatwave but the weather has broke now and it's a bit stormy. The North Face at St Leger is great for climbing when it's raining. Yesterday, after doing a few of the 6a's on the right, we did the Chevauchee / Macadam link-up - maybe this route deserves it's own name? 3 French Mountain Rescue guys led it and thought it was superb! Then we did Chevauchee Fantastique direct which is much easier if you wedge your knee in near the tree for a virtual hands off rest.
Then to our delight we found that Les Rifougneurs (7a) has been retro-bolted and there's no longer a nasty runout below the first crux. There's still a nails move near the top though - maybe next time!!

12th May
Best to avoid the classic 6C La Rire du Baleine to the left of sector Baleine at St Leger. I tried it yesterday and about 3/4 up was attacked by bees. Took one sting in the eye and this morning I look like I've been punched by Ricky Hatton.

29th April
Today we went to check out the two newest sectors at St Leger. These two good sectors, Dessous Chics and Broute Minou are even further west than sector Baleine. As with all new crags care should be taken with loose rock and it might take a while for the grades to settle down. We warmed up on a good 6A - La Salsa des Dentelles then did a 6B - Et Mika créa l'Uomo-sacrains-sacrains which was awesome and will undoubtedly become a classic. The 6C - Peterouchnoc is good but has a desperate power move right at the top and is probably worth 7a. Du joli monde au balcon - 7a/7a+ also got rave reviews but again high in the grade.
More info can be found here: http://escasaintleger.canalblog.com/archives/secteurs/index.html




Easter Report 2011
Well the dust has now settled on or busiest Easter period ever. With over 20 people staying in a combination of the B+B, camping, caravans and campervans.
Highlights of the week include Andy Cave's onsight of Les Clowns, a 3 star 7C at St Leger. Dave Barton at the age of 64 onsighting numerous 7A+'s and a 7B.
On a rest day we walked the Toulourenc Gorge from the original St Leger car park to the hamlet of Veaux at the other end of the gorge. Following the river throughout it's wet, exiting and great fun!


In the Toulourenc Gorge


14 April 2011

Just had a week off. Not feeling to well all bunged up with sinusitis and taking antibiotics. Anyway we’ve got a big team coming to stay at weekend staying for 10 days over the Easter period so we’ll keep you posted on what gets done. hopefully I'll be well enough to climb.
Temperatures have dropped back to normal (mid teens) so conditions should be better.

07 April 2011

We’ve just had almost a week of unseasonably hot weather with temperatures pushing the 30’s and even hotter on south facing sheltered rock.
So we headed down for a great session on the North Face of St Leger. No new stuff, just the usual but starting on the right we did all the 6a’s and the two 6b+’s - Hold Up and Riche Art then the 7a – La Chevauchee Fantastique.
I’ve linked the bottom half of Chevauchee into the top half of Macadam Cowboy to create a fantastic 6c climbed wholly on great tufa formations. It’s probably been done before but we’ve protected the runout mid section with a sneaky little thread runner in the tufa holes. Give it a try – it’s awesome and a relatively easy route on steep ground between some harder stuff.

Autumn 2012

Well the big news for me is that a successful trip to Yosemite resulted in me climbing The Nose then a few days later Zodiac on El Capitan. We did the Nosein a casual way taking 3.5 days then a speedy 1 bivvy ascent of Zodiac Without doubt the best 10 day period of my climbing life.

Spring 2013

Well it's been a while since we did a news update. Here's the latest:
There's a great new guidebook now available which has eclipsed all the other books for this area. It's called Escalade en Drome Provencale and all proceeds from the book go to the local bolting and equipping so it's a great idea to buy this book alongside the Escalades autour du Ventoux book which includes St Leger, Malaucene and Combe Obscure.